Length: 1 hour 56 minutes
A taste of Front Sight
Dr. Ignatius Piazza
A taste of Front Sight (0:01:30)
Brad Ackman: Hello, and welcome to the Front Sight One Day Introductory Handgun Course. My name is Brad Ackman and I am the Operations Manager at Front Sight. Dr. Piazza, the founder and director of Front Sight, has given me the honor of delivering your at-home, online, Front Sight introductory handgun course. I say it is an honor because Dr. Piazza could have chosen any one of our hundreds of extremely qualified range masters or instructors to deliver this course to you. He chose me and it is It is my pleasure to introduce you to the purpose, professionalism, and value of Front Sight Training. For those of you not familiar with Front Sight, we are the largest private firearms training facility in the United States. We have been training students since 1996, and we currently have members from all 50 states. Front Sight is located about 45 minutes west of Las Vegas on 550 acres. We are building the safest community in America, which is literally a Disneyland for experienced and novice shooters alike. Before we get started with your course, let me give you a brief tour of our facilities. This is called a Taste of Front Sight.
It’s easy to see from that brief video why Front Sight has become the world leader in firearms training, and now, it’s your turn. With this one day course, you will be starting your journey toward the comfort of skill at arms. Over my left shoulder you see just a couple of our dozens of firing ranges. Over my right shoulder is our 500 person classroom. All right, let’s get started. The purpose of the Front Sight Introductory Handgun Course is to provide new students with the terminology, procedures, and baseline techniques they need to excel when they attend a two-day or four-day defensive handgun course at Front Sight. Over the years, Front Sight has trained hundreds of thousands of responsible citizens just like you. During a Front Sight two-day or four-day defensive handgun course, our students receive intensive, hands-on, live-fire training, both on the range and off the range, in combat simulators from the very finest firearms instructors in the industry. After completing a two-day or four-day defensive handgun course, our students go back to their communities as true experts in safe and proficient gun handling. However, please understand that this introductory course you are participating in today will not impart in you that same level of skill that can only be attained through attending a two-day or four-day defensive handgun course at Front Sight in Nevada. That said, the training you will receive today during this online at home course will dramatically improve your gun handling, your speed, and your marksmanship.
Contents of this video (0:06:20)
Here’s what you will learn in today’s course:
- The four universal firearm safety rules
- Front Sight’s dry practice procedures
- ammunition basics and terminology
- handgun basics and terminology
- selecting a proper defensive handgun
- chamber checking and magazine checking
- the proper loading and unloading techniques
- proper grip stance and the ready position
- the three secrets of sight alignment, sight picture, and trigger control
- Tactical reload
- Types 1, 2, and 3 malfunctions, and
- Emergency reload
Although that list seems like a significant amount of training you will receive today, and it is a significant amount of training, I reiterate that you are just scratching the surface of Front Sight’s two-day or four-day defensive handgun course. At day’s end, please don’t make the mistake of believing that you are now Front Sight trained. That only happens when you actually come out and complete a two-day or four-day defensive handgun course at Front Sight. Once you attend a course, you will fully understand why Front Sight students are better trained, and have more expertise than 99% of the people who carry a gun for a living. You will also understand why students travel from across the country to attend our courses.
The four universal firearms safety rules (0:07:41)
Let’s start your training today by discussing the most important issue regarding firearms, and that is safety, safe handling of firearms, you must adhere to the four universal firearm safety rules. Let’s go through each one of these in detail so you fully understand them and more importantly can actually apply them.
Rule Number 1: Treat every weapon as if it were loaded, even when it’s unloaded, and you know you just unloaded it and you just checked it. Even then, treat it with the same respect, the same mindset that you would a loaded weapon. Just that respect generally takes care of any negligent discharge that you might otherwise have. By negligent discharge, we mean firing around that you didn’t mean to fire.
Rule Number 2: Never let the muzzle, that is the front of the gun, the gun cover or point at anything you’re not willing to destroy. The fact that that muzzle exists means that it’s covering something. If the weapon were in the holster, you’d be covering the floor. If you set it on the nightstand, you’re covering the wall. If you open up your safe and set it on the shelf, you’re covering the back panel of the safe. Are you willing to destroy all of those? Yeah, you better be because that’s what you’re covering. But how about your leg or your arm or your loved ones? Obviously not. You need to be what we call muzzle conscious. Know where that muzzle’s pointing all the time and don’t let it cover anything you’re not willing to destroy.
Rule Number 3: Keep your finger off the trigger, and in fact outside of the trigger guard until you’re ready to shoot. The corollary to that is when you are ready to shoot and you’re pointed in at your target, your finger is on the trigger because that’s the way the gun goes bang. Any other time, the trigger finger is straight.
Rule Number 4: Be sure of your target and what’s in line with your target, both foreground and background. Here at Front Sight, this is pretty simple because we’ve set it up that way. You will all be on the same firing line. There’s a long row of identical targets. Just behind them will be a big dirt berm. It’s all very artificial and orchestrated. On the street, however, where it matters, Rule 4 is much more complex. You’ll probably have a low-light environment. It’ll be dynamic, chaotic, scary. Under those circumstances, you have a few questions you need to answer. First, is this the right guy? Are you about to shoot the correct individual? If that answer is yes, then you need to know if there’s someone standing right next to you who’s about to step in front of your sights. Finally, if you do shoot your adversary and poke a hole right through him, what is the round going to hit downrange? You need to be able to satisfactorily answer all of those questions before you press the trigger. It goes without saying that once you’ve fired the shot, you cannot alter its course, and you certainly cannot get it back.
Dry Practice Discussion (0:10:52)
Next, I’d like to talk about dry practice. For those of you who may be new to the world of firearms, let me first define for you dry practice. Dry practice is the effort that you’ll put in off the range to perfect and hone the skills that you have acquired on the range. Since that practice will likely be done at home, it will obviously be done without ammunition, thus the term
dry practice. We long ago gave up the term
dry firing because you cannot fire a dry weapon. Those are mutually exclusive terms. To get to this point in this course, you already signed and initialed the online dry practice release. However, this is critical information and I’m going to go through it again one more time. As I do, please follow along as you agree to abide by these rules when it comes time for dry practice.
- Number one, set a reasonable time limit for dry practice, and that’s probably going to be 15 to 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, most people hit the point of diminishing returns. So if you really want to dry practice for an hour, that’s good, but break it up into the appropriate number of segments.
- Number two, designate a dry practice area. This will be the area in your home that is safest for dry practice, has the fewest distractions, etc.
- Number three, unload your weapon. Well forward, doesn’t it? You’re going to take the magazine out of the gun, take the round out of the chamber, but there’s more to consider than just that. For example, we all have pockets, so not only do you need to unload the weapon itself, you need to unload all these peripheral areas as well.
- Number four, place all that ammunition in another room. Get it completely out of your dry practice environment.
- Number five, pick a proper wall against which to dry practice. Ideally that would be a wall that would actually stop a round if you happen to have a negligent discharge. Again by negligent discharge we’re talking about banging off a round that you didn’t mean to. So what kind of wall are we talking about? Brick, concrete, cinder block — something robust. Not very many homes are constructed of those types of materials. So at very least, dry practice against a wall which leads towards an outside safe area. In other words, don’t be dry practicing directly towards your neighbor’s home. Then pick a proper target against which to dry practice. A proper target is not a permanent feature of your home. It’s not the light switch on the back wall, or that brand new plasma TV, or heaven forbid the family portrait. Reason being when you’re all done dry practicing, you load up your weapon, you’re headed off to work, and you pass that permanent feature that you’ve been using for dry practice, and now what happens? Just one more time. This time out comes the gun and it’s bang instead of click, and I know that sounds silly. It does. It sounds silly. But industry-wide that is a very common negligent discharge. So what constitutes a proper dry practice target? A simple sheet of paper works just fine. Or a sticky note. But the real key is when you are done dry practicing, that target comes down. It’s not something you leave up as a permanent feature.
- Number six, recheck to make certain that the weapon and everything else is unloaded.
- Number seven, avoid all distractions. Whatever those may be, spouse, the kids, TV, stereo, cell phone, seems like more and more distractions every year. Avoid those distractions during your dry practice session. Additionally, avoid those distractions just before your dry practice session during the time that you’re setting up as well.
- Number eight, when you are done dry practicing, say out loud,
I am done dry practicingor the dry practice session is over, or whatever it is you want. Frankly, the wording doesn’t much matter. What does matter is the fact that you say it out loud, because it really solidifies the fact that you are done dry practicing.
- Number nine, these are the four universal firearms safety rules as we just discussed a moment ago.
General liability release (0:15:33)
I know that you have already electronically initialed and signed the dry practice release. By moving forward in this video, you are double-confirming that you agree and will abide by Front Sight’s dry practice rules. It is no surprise in this day and age that we require you to complete a liability release. You already initialed and signed this document online to get into this course. However, I’m going to review this document now, so please follow along.
- Paragraph number one, this states that you are voluntarily applying for training.
- Number two, states that you assume and accept all risks.
- Number three, states that you release Front Sight from liability even in the event of negligence.
- States that you indemnify and hold harmless Front Sight, even in the event of negligence.
- States that you have adequate insurance or the financial ability to cover any damages that you may cause.
- States that all lawsuits must remain in the state of Nevada.
- States that you may have waived your right to sue Front Sight.
- Number eight states that you agree to abide by the terms of this contract.
- The next paragraph down is for minors. If you are under the age of 18, your parent or guardian signed right there.
- The final paragraph was completed by your witness.
Although you have signed and initialed electronically this release of liability and hold harmless agreement, to get into this course, do not move forward in this online course unless you once again agree to these terms. By moving forward from this point, you are confirming that you release Front Sight from liability and forever hold harmless Front Sight, its affiliates, employees, and anyone associated of any and all claims associated with the information and training received in this course, even in the event of negligence on the part of anyone associated with Front Sight.
Okay, if you’re still with me, you just completed the most difficult portion of the course. Now we get into the good stuff, the training.
Ammunition Basics and Terminology (0:17:36)
Let’s discuss ammunition as it relates to preparing you for a Front Sight course. Ammunition is, quite literally, what makes the gun go bang. Allow me to show you the basic components of ammunition. I am holding a single round of ammunition, or a single cartridge. Some people erroneously call this a round a bullet. The bullet is actually the portion of the ammunition which travels down the barrel and flies through the air. Inside the cartridge is gunpowder, which is the propellant for pushing the bullet. At the back of the cartridge is the primer, which is essentially a cap used to ignite the gunpowder. All of these components are held in place by the brass case. Here is how ammunition works. Pressing the trigger of the weapon releases the firing pin and allows it to strike the primer of the cartridge. The primer ignites, sending sparks into the case which contains the powder. The powder rapidly burns, turning from a solid to a gas. Gas increases the pressure inside the cartridge to the point where it overcomes the press fit of the bullet in the cartridge. The bullet begins to travel down the barrel of the weapon. As the powder continues to burn at a rapid rate, creating more and more pressure, the bullet is pushed faster, increasing its velocity until it leaves the barrel of the weapon.
There are numerous types of ammunition, of course, but right now I want to focus strictly on handgun ammunition. Ammunition comes in a variety of sizes called calibers. Examples are 9mm, 40, 10mm, .45, .38, .44 magnum, etc. Clearly, some of these designations are metric, and some are English. These numbers refer to the diameter of the bullet itself. As an example, the bullet of a 9mm has the diameter of 9mm. Similarly, the bullet of a .45 has the diameter of 45/100 inches, and so on. Obviously, 10 millimeter is slightly bigger than 9 millimeter, .45 slightly bigger than .40, etc. All of these different types of ammunition function in the exact same way.
Handgun Basics and Terminology (0:20:07)
Since I am now going to start actually handling guns, we have moved to a point portion of the property which provides a safe background. Additionally, it provides a bit of scenery. You may have thought that the Nevada desert is flat and featureless. Definitely not the case. Behind me you see Mount Charleston, which is over 11,000 feet in elevation and is routinely snow-capped. It also provides a nice backdrop for your training. So, let’s continue. In the last 20 years or so, there have been hundreds of new models of handguns introduced by the manufacturers. There are so many different handguns that some people get confused and intimidated. No need to get flustered. I’m going to make it easy for you. There are really only two types of handguns that matter to you and me, semi-automatics. Both of these designs have been around for hundreds of years and both work just fine. At Front Sight, most of our students use semi-automatics. If you don’t already own a handgun, we will talk about how to select a proper defensive handgun in just a minute. Let me introduce you to the various parts which make up a semi-auto handgun. First, the two major components are the frame and the slide. The bottom portion of the weapon is the frame, the top portion is the slide. There are numerous additional components attached to those two major features, but you will hear me discuss the frame and the slide again and again. Other important features are the rear sight, the frame, and the slide, front sight, the trigger, the slide stop, the magazine release, and the magazine well. All semi-auto handguns you are likely to encounter have those features. Additionally, some semi-auto handguns might have a thumb safety, a grip safety, an exposed hammer or a decocking lever. Of course, I’ll talk about how to use each one of those features at the appropriate time. Every semi-auto handgun also has a magazine. The magazine is simply a spring-loaded box, which holds the ammunition. Many people erroneously call these clips. Now let’s talk about revolvers. The two major features of a revolver are … the frame and the cylinder. Revolvers also have a front sight and a rear sight as well as an exposed hammer. The cylinder opens by means of the cylinder release to expose the individual chambers. When it comes time to unload the revolver, the ejection rod helps push out the empties. Revolvers don’t use magazines to hold the ammunition the way semi-autos do. Instead, revolvers use speed loaders, which are devices designed for your specific revolver, which allow you to load six rounds at a time. Once the ammo is in the weapon, the speed loader has served its function and must be refilled with more ammunition.
Selecting a proper defensive handgun (0:23:13)
Our motto at Front Sight is,
Any gun will do if you will do. What that means is, it’s not the gun that does the fighting. It’s the person holding the gun that makes the difference in a fight. At Front Sight, we will train you to be safe, responsible, and expert with whatever you gun you bring. However, some of the weapons we prefer at Front Sight are FMK, Glock, Springfield XD, various 1911s, and Smith & Wesson revolvers. All of these guns are well made and highly reliable, which is what you need when your life is at stake. Again, you do not have to go out and purchase a new gun to come to Front Sight or to complete this Front Sight Introductory Handgun Course. We will train you with what you have.
Right hand vs. left hand
Alright let’s continue with the training. I’d like to clear up some definitions for you folks who are left-handed. You would do us little good to say use your right hand for this or your left hand for that, because it’s obviously backwards for a left-handed shooter. So we get away from that confusion by using the terms firing side and support side. The easiest way to define these is to divide your body in half vertically. The side with the weapon is your firing side. The side with the magazine is your support side. These terms are applicable to whatever body part we are talking about. For example, firing side eye, support side elbow, etc.
Indexing magazines or speed loaders (0:24:55)
Let’s talk about the right way to handle magazines. The correct way is what we call indexing the magazine. A correct index on the magazine looks just like this. The magazine is in your support hand where your index finger can touch the first round or in the case of an empty magazine it’s touching the follower. The thumb is along one side and the remaining three fingers are simply wrapped around the back of the magazine. The bottom of the magazine is in contact with the palm of your hand. Where the floor plate actually hits your hand is not important. That will depend upon the size of the magazine and the size of your hand. What is important is that your index finger touches the top round in the magazine. Why? Let me give you an example. Let’s assume that you bring the magazine out of the pouch and you’ve got a round that has forward, like this. That magazine will never go into your weapon in that configuration. It simply won’t fit. You won’t even know there’s a problem until you’re thrashing around with it. However, a proper index on the magazine alerts you to the fact that there’s a problem. Now you can solve it either by pushing the round back into the magazine or simply flicking it right off the top. Either way, you now have the problem solved.
Indexing a speed loader is different. You will index it in your firing hand because speed loaders are carried on your firing side. To index a speed loader properly, you place the index finger between two rounds. It obviously doesn’t matter which two, but rather between two. The middle finger and the thumb hold on to the knob. When it’s time to rotate or push the knob, you will do so with the thumb and the middle finger. When do you acquire the index on the magazine? You will actually acquire that index while the magazine is still in the magazine pouch. For example, my support hand has a proper index on the magazine right now even though it’s not come out of the pouch yet. If you have Velcro or some sort of other retention device on your magazine pouch, you would remove it prior to establishing a proper index on the magazine. When the magazine comes out of the pouch, you already have it properly indexed. There is no need to adjust the magazine in your hand. When you acquire the magazine, you want to keep your support side elbow to the rear. If you let your elbow fly out to the side, you simply have to tuck it in later, which is obviously wasted motion. Keep your elbow to the rear from the very beginning. Let’s check to make sure that everyone understands how to acquire a proper index on a magazine. With your support hand, get a hold of the magazine, leave it in the pouch, but get a proper index on it as best you can in the pouch. The index finger is up along the front edge of the magazine. Three fingers are wrapped around the back. Retention devices are released at this point. Now, just pull it out of the pouch with a proper index and hold it up. Take a good look at it and make sure that you are holding it properly. Go ahead and put it back in the pouch.
Safety glasses (0:28:17)
Anytime you are handling firearms, whether dry practice or live fire, you must wear safety glasses and they should be true safety glasses, not merely stylish sunglasses. Proper safety glasses are impact resistant and wrap around your eye to protect your eye from side impact. Standard everyday prescription glasses are typically not sufficient because they are not impact resistant nor do they protect your eye from side impact. I know what you’re thinking. Why am I not wearing safety glasses? Well, try as we might, we were simply not able to overcome the glare on the glasses. So, for the purposes of this filming, I am not wearing safety glasses. Forget about me. Wear your safety glasses each and every time you handle your weapon.
Reference point for the trigger finger (0:29:14)
Let’s talk about safety rule number three one more time. Keeping your finger off the trigger until you’re ready to shoot is a little bit vague. There are about a thousand places it could be and still be off of the trigger. We want to give you a very specific location for your trigger finger, what we call the reference point. Every weapon has a reference point. It’s a button, a screw, an indentation. It will be something that you can feel with your trigger finger when it is straight and up alongside the frame. Wherever it is, it is not on the trigger and not on the trigger guard. On 1911s, the reference point is very easy. It’s the back side of the slide stop, which forms this big button right here. You can feel that button. It’s very obvious. That’s the reference point for a 1911. For the FMK and the Glock, the serrated edge of the takedown lever forms the reference point. Every gun has some sort of feature which can be used as a reference point. As soon as you handle your weapon, you will find your specific reference point.
Chamber checking and magazine checking (0:30:28)
Let’s talk about our first technique, and that is chamber checking and magazine checking. We call this one second of cheap insurance because it only takes a second to perform, and at its conclusion you will know with complete certainty the condition of your weapon. Now don’t get this confused with loading and unloading. This is simply checking the condition of your weapon. If you are a police officer about to start your shift, you would chamber check and magazine check to verify that your weapon was loaded. If you’re getting ready for dry practice, you would chamber check and magazine check to verify that the weapon was unloaded. I’m going to start with the FMK because it’s the simplest of the weapons to manipulate. FMKs do not have an exposed hammer, a grip safety, a thumb safety, decocking levers, and they only fire one way, which makes them the easiest weapon to use. After I’ve covered the FMK, I’ll work the complexity chain covering every weapon that we have here today. For those of you shooting Glock, Springfield XD, or Smith & Wesson M&Ps, the method for the FMK also applies to you.
You will start with the weapon at the ready. Now I realize we haven’t discussed exactly what the ready is, but roughly both hands are on the weapon, the trigger finger is straight, the weapon is at arm’s length, and it’s down at 45 degrees. First you will bring the weapon in close to your body where you have better leverage and greater dexterity. Keep the trigger finger straight and the muzzle pointed in a safe downrange direction. Next, drift your trigger finger away from the frame giving your support hand room to move. Release your support hand from the frame and bring it underneath the slide. Grasp the slide using the pads of the fingers and the thumb, midway between the muzzle and the ejection port, about like this. There is a tendency to use the base of your thumb instead of the pad. Avoid this tendency, because this becomes this and you go home one digit short. You definitely don’t want that. If your support hand gets too close to the muzzle, you run the risk of covering your hand. If you get too close to the ejection port, you can no longer see into the chamber to chamber check. Run the slide to the rear ½ inch and look into the chamber. If you see brass, the weapon is loaded. If you see no brass, then the chamber is unloaded. Next, push the slide fully forward. You need to ensure that the slide is fully forward so that your gun will function. If you have trouble with this under the slide method of chamber checking, an acceptable alternative is to grasp the slide on the rear cocking serrations between the heel of the hand and the pads of your fingers on your support hand. This is good for people who need more leverage to move the slide. Run the slide back enough to see inside, making sure to avoid pulling the slide all the way to the rear to eject a round, or induce a malfunction. Again, about a half an inch is perfectly sufficient. Now we know the condition of the chamber.
Next, we need to check the condition of the magazine, if one is present in the weapon. Most of you will not be able to maintain a firing grip on the weapon and get to the magazine release button using your firing side thumb because the frame is just too big. You will need to loosen your firing grip on the frame just a little to get the rigid tip of your thumb on the magazine release button. This may involve a slight rotating motion of the weapon in your firing hand, and that’s fine. Just keep your trigger finger straight and the muzzle pointed downrange. Release with the tip of your thumb. You want to use the tip of the thumb because it’s rigid due to the thumbnail and the tip of the bone. If you use the pad of your thumb, the pad simply conforms around the button and you don’t accomplish anything. For left-handers, you will use the tip of your trigger finger to press the magazine release. If your gun is not equipped with an ambidextrous magazine release. Your support hand will be underneath the magazine well, ready to catch a magazine as it falls free from the weapon. In this case, there is no magazine in the weapon. Re-establish a firing grip on the frame and insert a finger into the magazine well to make certain that nothing is lodged in there. At that point, you have completed a chamber check and a magazine check.
Once you’re finished, go right back out to the ready position.
I’ll demonstrate that one more time. Bring the weapon in close, keep the trigger finger straight, and the muzzle downrange. Get a hold of the slide with the support hand, drift the trigger finger away from the frame, run the slide back half an inch, examine the chamber, and then push the slide forward to make certain that it’s seated. Rotate the weapon in your hand, press the magazine release, re-establish a firing grip, insert a finger to make certain that the magazine well is empty. Once you’re all done, back out to the ready.
What do you do when there’s a magazine in the weapon? Well, let’s insert an empty magazine into the magazine well, so we actually have a magazine to check. Again, there is a right way and a wrong way for everything. Let’s talk about the correct way to insert a magazine. With a proper index on the magazine, bring the back of the magazine into contact with the inside back of the magazine well at a slight angle. This method gives you a little more room for error or misalignment without having to thread the proverbial needle by trying to insert the magazine straight into the magazine well. With the magazine set up at the entrance of the magazine well, roll it in as you release your index on the magazine. Keep the magazine in contact with the palm of your hand and when the angle is correct, simply open up the palm of your hand and seat it briskly with one motion. There are two things that we do not want to see.
First, do not insert the magazine part way and then remove your support hand to get a running start at it.
Second, do not tap it several times once you’ve inserted it. The magazine should be inserted with one brisk motion.
With the magazine properly inserted, bring the weapon in close and chamber check. Now it’s time for a magazine check. Take the magazine completely out of the weapon, keep it properly indexed, and look. Is it full? Is it empty? Cracked? Rusted? Packed full of mud? Is it going to work when you need it to work? If you’re satisfied with the condition of the magazine, then simply reinsert. Once you’ve done that, back out to the ready. I’ll demonstrate this one more time. Bring the weapon in and chamber check, magazine check, reinsert, and back out to the ready. Okay, that handles the FMK.
Chamber checking the 1911 is very similar to the FMK with one minor addition. 1911s have a thumb safety that locks the slide in place when the safety is on. So, bring the weapon in, disengage the thumb, thumb safety by pressing it down, and then chamber check. Then the safety goes right back on, and magazine check as usual. Notice how briefly the safety is off. It’s off only long enough to actually chamber check, then it goes right back on before the magazine check. So again, bring the weapon in, safety off, chamber check, safety on, and magazine check.
Let’s talk about double-action semi-autos like a SIG, which has a decocking lever that automatically returns to the firing position. All double-action weapons have a very heavy main spring that holds the hammer against the slide. If you attempt to chamber check with the hammer down, you will press harder and harder and harder until the hammer cams out of the way and you eject around or induce a malfunction. The proper way to chamber check a double action is to thumb-cock the hammer using your support side thumb. Now the hammer is out of the way and chamber checking is very easy. After you have chamber checked, decock using your firing side thumb. Left hand shooters, you would use your trigger finger to decock. Then perform a magazine check. So again, bring the weapon in close, thumb cock, chamber check, decock, magazine check as usual, and back out to the ready.
Let’s talk about Smith & Wesson, Beretta, and a few other weapons that have a decocker on the slide that must manually be reset to the firing position. This is a double action weapon much like the SIG, except the decocking lever is not spring-loaded. It will stay in the down position and that’s not good. Down is death. With the decocking lever down, you cannot fire the weapon. So the chamber checking procedure for the Smith & Beretta is to thumb cock using your support side thumb, chamber check, decock using your firing side thumb and then stroke the decocking lever back up. Then perform a magazine check as usual. So once again, thumb cock, chamber check, decock, decocking lever back up, and magazine check.
An alternate chamber checking procedure for the Berettas and Smiths is the LAPD method. Use the index and middle fingers of your support hand to hook just in front of the decocking levers. Place your thumb on the tang which is this part of the frame. Press the levers down and perform a chamber check. Since the decocking levers are down, the hammer will automatically be down at the conclusion of the chamber check. In other words, the hammer follows the slide forward. Then stroke the decocking levers up using your firing side thumb and magazine check as usual.
The revolver is completely different. To chamber check a revolver, bring the weapon in a little closer to your body point the muzzle down to the ground. Be careful not to cover your feet with the muzzle. Bring your support hand underneath the weapon. The trigger guard will be touching the palm of your support hand. Drift your trigger finger away from the frame. Grasp the cylinder with the support hand thumb on one side and the middle and ring fingers on the other. Your index finger will be touching the frame or the barrel in front of the cylinder. Your little finger will be on the frame behind the cylinder just like that. Press the cylinder release open using your firing side thumb and push the cylinder all the way open using the middle and ring finger of your support hand in this position using your support hand thumb, so you’ve got the weapon trapped right there. Release your firing hand and hold the weapon with your support hand. Now look at each of the chambers. If there is nothing in the chambers, the weapon is unloaded. If there’s brass in the chambers, you still have some work to do. It is possible that you have empty brass sitting in those chambers. Thus, you need to look closely for primer strikes. If you see a dented primer, that’s a spent round. Once you’re satisfied with the condition of your weapon, re-establish a firing grip on the weapon with your firing hand. With your support hand, gently close and roll until the cylinder engages. Don’t do the Wild West flip because you can damage the timing of the weapon, which is the alignment of the cylinder to the frame and the barrel. With bad timing, you’ll be shaving lead out the side of the weapon when you fire the gun, which is a serious safety hazard. For left-handed revolver shooters, this technique is slightly different. Bring the weapon in close and point the muzzle at the ground again without covering your feet. Bring your support hand underneath the weapon and grasp the cylinder with your support hand thumb on one side and the middle and ring fingers on the other. Press the cylinder release with your trigger finger and push the cylinder all the way open with the support hand thumb. Rotate the weapon onto your support hand thumb so that the thumb comes all the way through the opening in the frame as far as possible. Grasp the cylinder with your support hand thumb and middle and ring fingers. The remaining support hand fingers should be straight to keep them out of the way. You should have a firm control of the weapon with your support hand only. If your support hand thumb is not all the way through the opening, you will not have control of the frame. Now, perform a chamber check. Reacquire your firing hand grip. Rotate the weapon to a vertical position. Remove your thumb from the opening in the right side of the frame. Press the cylinder closed with your support hand fingers and rotate until the cylinder engages. Make certain that there are no obstructions in the holster. If you encounter resistance in the holster, hold the weapon out with your firing hand and clear the problem with your support hand, then holster gently. If the gun falls out of your hands, let it fall to the ground. Don’t grab for it because this can cause a negligent discharge.
Holstering and dropped gun procedure (0:44:42)
Make certain that there are no obstructions in the holster. If you encounter resistance in the holster, pull the weapon out with your firing hand and clear the problem with your support hand, then holster gently.
If the gun falls out of your hands, let it fall to the ground. Don’t grab for it, because this can cause a negligent discharge.
At this point we’re about to begin dry practice of chamber checking and magazine checking and pause the video. The warning banner will be visible on the screen the entire time you are dry practicing.
- Chamber & magazine check — Dry practice (0:45:31)
- Pause the video at this point and dry practice chamber and magazine checking on your own.
- Keep this image visible during the entire dry practice session
- Review the Dry Practice Release, which you signed at the beginning of this course
- Protect your eyes with proper safety glasses
- Verify you have a safe downrange area
- Verify there is NO LIVE AMMUNITION anywhere in the training area
- You may use inert dummy training rounds as appropriate to the exercise
- If a problem or distraction occurs, STOP! and start the dry practice session over at the very beginning
- Remember, YOU are responsible for safe firearms handling
The proper loading and unloading techniques (0:45:42)
We’re about to begin the discussion of loading and unloading. To get to this point in the introductory handgun course you had to electronically read, initial, and sign the Front Sight Dry Practice Agreement. So, following the rules of dry practice, you know that all live ammunition should be removed from your gun, your magazines, and your person, and completely out of the training area. Please take a moment and make doubly sure that all live ammunition has been removed training area.
If you have the brightly colored, easily identifiable inert or dummy training rounds that you purchased from Front Sight for this online course, you may use them during certain dry practice drills such as loading, unloading, and malfunction clearances. The Front Sight inert dummy training rounds are easily identifiable by their bright, bright orange color and cannot be mistaken as live ammo or worse, live ammo being mistaken for an inert dummy training round. If you do not have the training rounds, do not use live ammunition. Simply go through the motions with a completely empty gun. Do not violate the dry practice rules.
There are four types of loads with a handgun. Right now we’re going to cover administrative loading and unloading. The administrative load is done at the beginning of a firing exercise. You will receive the command,
The range is clear, firing drill. You’ll come out of the holster to the ready position. Loading always begins and ends with a chamber check and a magazine check. Bring the weapon in close, chamber check, magazine check just as you have practiced before. You determine that the weapon is empty and it is now time to load. With your support hand index a fully loaded magazine off your belt insert it into the weapon. Now you need to run the action to actually chamber a round. To do that, grab the grasping grooves on the back of the slide with your support hand. Use the heel of your hand on one side, the pads of your fingers on the other side. Don’t slingshot the slide or ride the slide forward with your hand because you … the risk of inducing a malfunction. After running the slide, your hand will come off of the slide and continue to the rear until it strikes your firing side shoulder. This ensures that your hand comes off of the slide and allows it to go forward on its own.
Now that you’ve chambered a round, you need to chamber check to verify that the weapon is actually loaded. Remember, it’s one second of cheap insurance, and finish with a magazine check. Actually take the magazine out of the weapon and look at it. Make certain that the round you just loaded wasn’t the last round in the magazine.
At this point, you’re ready for a firing drill. At the end of the exercise, you will be given the command to unload. Unloading also begins and ends with a chamber check and a magazine check. Once the magazine is out of the weapon, there’s no need to put it back in the weapon, so stow it in a pocket.
Alright, I have the magazine out of the weapon. Am I unloaded? No, obviously. I still have a round in the chamber. To remove the round from the chamber, bring the weapon in close to the body, keeping the trigger finger straight and the muzzle pointed downrange. Roll the weapon 90 degrees to the left, Note: The procedure for right-handers is now to roll the semi-auto 90 degrees to the left, pointing the stock up and the ejection port down), basically the mirror image of what left-handers are told to do below. which puts the ejection port down. This allows gravity to help us. With your support hand, form a cup over the ejection port and grasp the slide with the heel of your hand and your fingertips. This cup is where the round in the chamber will end up, so make sure that there’s some room in that cup for the round to fall out. Additionally, keep your support side elbow high and away from the muzzle. Remember Rule 2. Then gently run the slide to the rear and the round will fall out into your support hand. Ease the slide forward, put the round in your pocket. Note: To move the ejected round from the pistol to your pocket, bring your support hand to your firing side shoulder, then across to your support side shoulder, and then down to your pocket. This ensures you will not move your support hand in front of the muzzle during this transfer. Now what? Right, chamber check and magazine check.
Okay, for left-handers, roll the weapon 90 degrees to the right, place your support hand thumb on the left side of the slide and your fingers on the right side of the slide, again forming a cup over the ejection port. Gently run the slide to the rear and the round will fall into your support hand. Ease the slide forward, put the round in your pocket, and finish with a chamber check and a magazine check.
Alright, that completes the cycle of loading and unloading. So let’s do it again. You will hear
the range is clear, firing drill. Bring your weapon out to the ready, then come back toward your body, chamber check, and magazine check. Index a fresh magazine off your belt and properly insert it into the magazine well. Run the slide to the rear, allowing your support hand to come off the gun and hit your firing side shoulder. Finish with a chamber check and a magazine check. At this point you are ready for a firing drill.
At the conclusion of the firing drill you will be given the command to unload, chamber check, magazine check, and put the magazine away. Roll the weapon 90 degrees to the left, form a cup with your support hand, grasp the slide, keeping the elbow high, run the slide, drop the round into your support hand, and finish with a chamber check and a magazine check. Let’s talk about some of the problems that we sometimes see. First, if the round coming out of the chamber falls to the ground, that’s fine. Do not bend over to retrieve it. Additionally, if the round won’t come out of the chamber, hand probably isn’t properly cupped. The round is trying to escape, but it hits your hand and is forced right back into the ejection port. If that occurs, reposition your hand and try it again. Don’t get into a wrestling match with your weapon in an effort to remove that round. If you do this, you run the risk of causing an open breach detonation, which means the round goes off while the slide is still open, and this can result in a significant injury.
Loading a revolver also begins and ends with a chamber check. Obviously, there is no magazine check with a revolver. In an administrative situation, a revolver can be loaded either by using loose rounds from your firing side pocket or by a speed loader. Loose rounds and speed loaders should be on your firing side because you’re using your firing hand to access them. There are two common types of speed loaders. One is HKS which has an aluminum knob that rotates to release the rounds. The other one is made by safari land and requires you to push the body of the loader to release the rounds. It doesn’t matter which style you choose, just be sure to practice with it. You will hear the range is clear firing drill. Bring the weapon out to the ready. Now bring the weapon back in, muzzle down, open the cylinder, and chamber check. Determine that the weapon is empty and now it’s time to load. Keep the muzzle pointed down to the ground but do not cover your feet. Align the rounds in the speed loader with the chambers and release the rounds. After the rounds have fallen into the chambers, simply drop the speed loader to the ground. Do not waste time trying to put the speed loader in your pocket. Without ammunition, it’s now useless to you. Run your firing side thumb around the back of the cylinder to ensure that all the rounds are properly seated. Then re-establish a firing grip with your firing hand. With your support hand, gently close the cylinder and roll it until it engages. At that point, you’re ready for a firing drill. At the conclusion of a firing drill, you will get the command to unload. Bring the weapon in close, open the cylinder, and trap the weapon in your support hand. Tip the muzzle straight up to allow gravity to help drop the rounds out. With the palm of your firing hand, strike the ejector rod to remove the brass out of the chambers. Let the brass in live ammo fall to the ground. Do not catch them and put them in your pocket. Then, rotate the weapon muzzle down and chamber check. Re-establish a firing grip, close the cylinder gently, and rotate it until it engages. I’ll demonstrate this one more time. You will hear the
range is clear, firing drill, and chamber check. Trap the cylinder open and access loose rounds or index a full speed loader. Drop the rounds in place and let the speed loader fall. Gently close the cylinder, rotate it till it engages, and go back out to the ready. Now unload, bring the weapon in, chamber check. Tip the muzzle up, trapping the cylinder wide open, palm strike the ejector rod and let the rounds fall to the ground. Finish with a chamber check and gently close the cylinder, rolling it until it engages. Once finished, back out to the ready. Left-hand shooters, the only thing that’s different is the chamber checking technique where you will use your trigger finger to open the cylinder.
- Gun loading and unloading — Dry practice (0:55:45)
- Pause the video at this point and dry practice gun loading and unloading on your own.
Loading magazines and speed loaders (0:55:55)
Let’s talk about loading magazines and speed loaders.
To load magazines, take a round, push down on the leading edge of the follower, and then slide the round underneath the feed lips. Do that again and again and again until the magazine is almost full. If you have a double stack magazine such as FMK, Glock, XD, etc., we want you to load your magazines at least one round down. For example, if you’re using a 10 round magazine, load it with nine. The magazines are far more reliable when loaded one or two rounds down. If you have a 1911 magazine, you can load the magazines to full capacity and they will still be reliable.
Filling a revolver speed loader is a little trickier. You need to know how your specific brand operates. For the HKS variety, hold the speed loader straight up and drop the appropriate number of rounds in. Having done that, simply turn the knob at the bottom of the speed loader and there’s a small aluminum device that holds the rounds in place. For the Safari Land type, hold the speed loader straight up, and again insert the rounds. Having done that, hold the body of the speed loader while pushing the knob at the bottom up and to the right and that will trap the rounds in place. Take a couple minutes now to load two magazines or two speed loaders.
Proper grip, stance, and the the ready position (0:57:56)
In this block of instruction, we’re going to cover a method of holding your weapon and a body position which will guarantee good solid hits downrange. We call this grip and stance. The goal of a proper grip and stance is to control the recoil and muzzle flip when the Just to make certain that everyone knows what we mean, let’s define those terms. Recoil is the rearward push of the weapon and muzzle flip is the upward rotation of the muzzle. Of course those occur simultaneously each time you fire the weapon. A proper grip begins with placement of your firing hand as high as possible on the frame. If you let your firing hand slide down on the frame, you will have less control of muzzle flip. The result of proper hand placement should be a bulge of flesh behind the tang of the weapon. The tang is this portion of the frame. For you 1911 shooters, the tang is also part of the grip safety. The trigger finger is straight alongside the frame and touching the reference point. The remaining three fingers are simply wrapped around the front of the frame. The thumb is high and relaxed. For 1911 shooters, the thumb is on top of the thumb safety. The weapon should extend in a straight line from your forearm. If there is a significant angle between your forearm and the weapon, you will have difficulty controlling recoil and muzzle flip. All right, that takes care of the firing hand. Now let’s talk about the support hand. The easiest way to describe the placement of the support hand is fingers on fingers, thumb on thumb. The support side fingers should simply overlap the firing side fingers underneath the trigger guard. The support side index finger should hit the bottom of the trigger guard right about at the second knuckle. For example, right there where I’ve drawn that black line, that is going to contact the bottom of the trigger guard thumb stacks comfortably on top of the firing side thumb and the bases of the thumbs are in contact. That is a proper two-handed grip. There are two common mistakes you need to avoid in your grip. First, if you let your support side index finger drift up on top of the trigger guard you’re going to have difficulty controlling muzzle flip. Second, if you let your thumbs curl down into a crushing grip, you may cause two problems. First, the thumbs will likely hit one of the controls of the weapon at just the wrong time. Second, by crushing your thumbs down, you ruin your trigger control. When your hand is flexed it’s very difficult to move just your trigger finger with a high degree of dexterity. Now let’s talk about the stance. There are two popular stances out there today. The one we favor is called the weaver stance. We favor the weaver because it allows better control over recoil and muzzle flip. This added control enables more rapid follow-up shots. Additionally, the weaver stance transitions very well into using a shotgun or a rifle. If I square off directly to my adversary, this is what we call a zero-degree stance. Facing your opponent squarely like this is a position of disadvantage. Whether you’re a boxer, a martial artist, a gunfighter, it doesn’t matter. It is far better to be in a bladed, more aggressive stance. To accomplish this, simply drop your firing side foot back about half the length of your support side foot. Then rotate your feet toward the firing side until they point at about 30 degrees away from your target. Your feet should be short width apart, parallel, and even across the toes, as opposed to staggered front and rear. Your hips and shoulders are also at 30 degrees. There should be no twisting of the spine. Your feet, hips, and shoulders are all in that same 30 degree plane. Your body and head … are relatively erect. Your knees should be bent very slightly. You should also have a very slight amount of forward lean, just enough to get the weight over the balls of your feet. The only things facing your adversary are your head and obviously your weapon. If I’m going to use this as my downrange direction and I extend my arms toward my adversary, clearly one hand extends much farther than the other. This is the result of being in a bladed stance. To obtain the proper two-handed grip that we just talked about, you simply bend your support side elbow straight down toward the ground and bring the two hands together. Don’t leave the elbow out to the side. Point directly to the ground. Keep the firing side arm relatively straight. This is what we call the weaver stance. This is the weaver stance from the firing side. This is the weaver stance from the support side. One thing you cannot see in the weaver stance is the isometric tension in the arms. The isometric tension is created by pushing the weapon forward toward the adversary with your firing side arm while simultaneously pulling rearward toward your body with your support side arm. This isometric tension essentially locks the frame in place much like a vice. Remember, when you fire the weapon, you are pulling the frame forward and you are pulling weapon, the muzzle wants to rise. Notice what happens to the frame when the muzzle rises. The frame also moves because the two are connected. It has to. It has no choice. However, if I were to lock this frame in a vise, thereby preventing the frame from moving, the muzzle wouldn’t be able to rise. The isometric tension that you create with a proper weaver stance functions as that vice and controls the recoil and the muzzle flip of the weapon. Now that we’ve covered grip and stance let’s talk about the ready position. We’ve talked about the ready position earlier but not in detailed terms. The ready position is obviously a position of readiness from which you can respond rapidly to a threat. It is not relaxed, it’s ready. The best way to achieve a ready position is to start from the weaver stance. You are pointed in at your adversary, finger is on the trigger, safety is off for 1911 shooters. To get to the ready, simply straighten your trigger finger and drop the weapon to 45 degrees by pivoting at the shoulders. The rest of your body geometry remains exactly the same. If you need to respond to an adversary simply snap the weapon back up on target by pivoting from the shoulders. Now you’re pointed in with your finger on the trigger and back down to the ready. Up, down. Up, down. No other moves except the pivoting of your shoulders and obviously your trigger finger. If you change your body position in the ready, you will have to correct it later when you point in and obviously that wastes time. Once you are certain that the threat is over, the safety goes on or decock the weapon as appropriate to your particular style.
- Grip, stance, & ready — Dry practice (1:05:47)
- Pause the video at this point and dry practice grip, stance, and ready on your own.
The Three Secrets of sight alignment, sight picture, and trigger control (1:05:47)
Up to this point, we’ve been working on gun handling. Now we want to switch gears and talk about marksmanship. There are numerous elements of marksmanship. Depending upon which reference you check, you’ll find anywhere from eight, maybe ten different elements. These include such things as heart rate and breathing. Certainly that would apply to a sniper taking a thousand-yard precision shot. However, in a defensive setting with a handgun, you generally have conversational distances, low light, multiple adversaries, and a dynamic chaotic environment. In that setting, only three elements of marksmanship really matter. We call these the three secrets. Now clearly they are not secrets or I wouldn’t be standing here telling you about them today. However, if you go to your local shooting range and watch some people shoot, it’s obvious One or more of these elements is a secret to them, thus the name. The three secrets are sight alignment, sight picture, and trigger control, in that order. Sight alignment is the alignment of your eye, the rear sight, and the front sight. This represents your rear sight. This represents your front sight. There are many different sight configurations obviously, however this represents a basic set of sights. So how do you align these for proper sight alignment? The front sight must sit in the rear sight notch such that it is flush across the top with the rear sight. Additionally, there must be the same amount of daylight left and right of the front sight. There’s only one proper sight alignment and it looks like this. This would be too high, this would be too far to the left, etc. Now let’s talk about sight picture. Now that you’ve established this perfect sight alignment, what do you do with it? You place the top of the front sight exactly where you want your bullet to hit. In this case, in the center of the thoracic cavity. So your sight picture will look just like that, and the bullet will impact at the very top center of the front sight. However, this is a little deceiving because in this demonstration, the target, the front sight, the rear sight are all in the same plane. In reality, there will be some spatial separation between these elements. Since your eye works much like a camera, it can only focus on one distance at a time. You must choose what to focus on. You can focus on the rear sight, the front sight, your adversary, or some indeterminate distance in between. Now, here’s your first big … test. Given the name of the school, what do you think we want you to focus on? Yeah, correct, the front sight. So let me show you what this will actually look like. How hard should you focus on the front sight? You need to apply a hundred and ten percent of your focus to the front sight if that were possible. Only by focusing Can you maintain proper sight alignment? Everything else is going to be blurry. The rear sight will be blurry, the target will be blurry, especially in low light, and that’s fine. Additionally, you will close one eye. Closing one eye allows you to get a perfect sight picture without any double or ghost images. But which eye do you close? Generally, it’ll be the eye … on your support side. Your dominant eye is usually on your firing side. However, this may not always be the case. Now let’s perform a quick exercise to determine which eye is your dominant eye. Please listen to the instructions closely and stay with me. First, take both hands and bring them together in front make an aperture about the size of a quarter. Next, focus on a spot across the room, perhaps a light switch. Keep both eyes open and bring your hands up until the light switch is centered in the aperture. Next, keep that light switch in your aperture, bring your hands back to your face, and see which eye you come to. That is your dominant eye. If your dominant eye is on your firing side, that’s great. If not, then you are what we call cross-dominant. If you are cross-dominant, there’s nothing wrong with you. It simply means that your brain likes the images from the other eye better. There are a couple of ways to compensate for being cross-dominant. Our recommendation is to close that support sight eye regardless, even though that is your dominant eye. You will have to do this anyway when you shoot a rifle or a shotgun, since there is no way to get your dominant eye behind the sights. The less preferred method is to move your head over a little and move the weapon over a little, thus splitting the difference right in the middle. This way you can get your dominant eye behind the sights. It does compromise your stance a little bit but allows you to use your dominant eye, and that brings us to trigger control. Trigger control is the most challenging of the three secrets. It begins with proper finger placement on the trigger. You want the pad of your trigger finger to contact … the face of the trigger and you want that to be right across the swirl in the fingerprint, right about there. However, if you are shooting a heavy double action trigger, you may need a little more mechanical advantage. So place the first knuckle across the face of the trigger. Start with the pad, move to the joint only if needed. For the single action weapons, we want to remove the slack from the trigger. Slack is that small amount of movement in the trigger that really doesn’t have much function. Get rid of the slack. Let me demonstrate for you what slack is. Slack is that small amount of movement in the trigger that really doesn’t have much function. Slack is that small amount of movement in the trigger that really doesn’t have much function. Slack is that small amount of movement in the trigger that really doesn’t have much function. Slack is that small amount of movement in the trigger that really doesn’t have much function. Slack is that small amount of movement in the trigger that really doesn’t have much function. Slack is that small amount of movement in the trigger that really doesn’t have much function. Slack is that small amount of movement in the trigger that really doesn’t have much function. Slack is that small motion of the trigger that really has no bearing. As soon as you’re up on target, finger is on the trigger, take the slack out. For you double action shooters, including revolvers, there is generally no slack in the trigger on the first press. You will simply press smoothly and evenly all the way through the trigger press. That is, press a little bit and stop. Press a little bit more and stop. What you want to do is simply press all the way through the trigger smoothly and evenly. Next we want to achieve what we call a surprise break. A surprise is something that you didn’t expect. By break, we mean the trigger actually functioning. If you were dry practicing, you’d get a click. In the case of a firing drill, the weapon would actually fire. Begin building pressure on the trigger slowly, smoothly, evenly to the rear until the weapon fires. Now, you’re not stupid. You know that the gun is going to fire sooner or later, but you don’t know exactly when. A surprise break means you will get a perfect hit. Why is a surprise break so important? Because if you anticipate the recoil as you press the trigger you will get low hits. As an example, if you are focused on the front sight everything looks good and you say let’s fire the weapon now. The shots will hit low because you’re anticipating the recoil or mashing the trigger and you’re forcing the front sight to dip. You want to avoid that. What you want is a surprise. The next step after firing the weapon is trigger reset. We accomplish that by holding the trigger all the way back through recoil, and then allowing the trigger to go forward only until it clicks or resets. Let me demonstrate trapping the trigger with the FMK. You will press the trigger and hold it to the rear. The weapon will cycle. You will go forward only to the reset. Now you are prepared for subsequent shots. Keep your finger in contact with the trigger. If you let your trigger finger fly forward off the trigger between shots, you lose contact with the trigger and increase your workload. You must then re-establish the proper finger placement and remove the slack before you can begin pressing. So maintain contact with the trigger between shots, and let it go forward only to the reset. For you double action shooters, after you reset the trigger, you will need to take some slack out of the trigger again. Sorry, that’s just the way the gun works. Let me demonstrate that for you. You will press the trigger. The weapon will cycle. You will go forward just to the reset and from this point you have more slack. Then you can begin your next trigger press for a surprise break. So to sum up trigger control, the elements are proper finger placement, slack out, surprise break, trap the trigger to the rear, and proper reset. That’s trigger control. After you have fired your intended number of shots, do not jump off the trigger and rapidly bring the gun down to the ready. Instead, properly reset the trigger, get another sight picture, and be prepared to shoot again. This process we call follow-through. Much like a golf swing, shooting requires the proper follow-through to guarantee good hits on your target. Dry practice of the three secrets is quite simple. You will start with the weapon out at the ready, bring it in, chamber check, magazine check to verify that the weapon is unloaded. You will then point in at the target. Properly place your finger on the trigger, gently Gently, smoothly, press the trigger without disrupting the sights. Once you have achieved a surprise break, trigger finger will go straight and the weapon comes back down to the ready. Chamber check again to reset your action. We simply call this exercise
Up, Look, Press. and down and it helps ingrain the three secrets. You will not be able to practice trapping the trigger to the rear during this particular exercise.
- The 3 Secrets — Dry practice (1:16:50)
- Pause the video at this point and dry practice the 3 Secrets on your own.
Tactical reload (1:17:00)
Now, let’s talk about the first of our reloading procedures, that is, the tactical reload. The tactical reload is by far the preferred reloading procedure. It is performed during a lull in the gunfight, and its purpose is to keep your weapon fully loaded in preparation for the next gunfight. It’s far better to reload during a lull in the gunfight, rather than in the middle of a gunfight. The overriding philosophy here is to reload when you want to, not when you have to. The tactical reload is performed with the weapon at the ready position. Let’s assume that you have already fired on your adversary. He’s down and out of the fight. You’ve come down to the ready and performed the after-action drills. The after-action drills allow you to identify other threats in the area, and you will learn them when you get here to Front Sight. There appears to be no immediate threat, so you turn the safety on or decock as appropriate to your weapon. There is no immediate threat, no immediate action, but the gunfight may not be over. You’re not certain if there are more bad guys just around the corner. You’re a few rounds down from your first engagement. This is the ideal time to perform a tactical reload and bring your weapon back up to full capacity. Otherwise you run the risk of engaging engaging the next adversary with a partially … depleted magazine. You don’t want that to happen. The tactical reload is done completely at the ready. First, reach back with your support hand and check to make certain that you have a full magazine on your belt. Then bring your support hand back up underneath the magazine well. Drop the partially depleted magazine out of the weapon and in your support hand. Put the partially depleted magazine in your pocket, not on your belt. Now with your support hand, secure that fresh magazine off of your belt, properly index and insert it into the weapon. That’s it. This is a very simple technique and can be accomplished very quickly. Let me show you that again. Be certain you have a full magazine on your belt, and of course one in the weapon. So, tactical reload. Check to verify you have a fresh magazine. Drop the old one into your support hand, put it in your pocket. Secure a fresh magazine, insert it into the weapon, and finish at the ready. Now you once again are equipped with a fully loaded weapon.
Alright, let’s discuss revolvers. A tactical reload with a revolver is dependent upon having loose rounds or a speed strip. Bring the weapon in from the ready and keep the muzzle pointed down. Open the cylinder and trap it just as you have done previously with loading and unloading. With your support thumb, press the ejector rod about halfway up. This will lift the rounds up, but not eject them from the weapon. Then, release the ejector rod. Generally, the live rounds will fall right back into their chambers, while the empties stand up. With your firing hand, simply pluck out the empties that are standing up, and insert fresh rounds. Once the weapon is loaded, close the cylinder right back out to the ready.
There are several inherent drawbacks with this revolver technique. First, it’s slow. Second, the empties don’t always stand up in the chambers. At that point, you’re fishing around trying to determine which rounds are live and which rounds are empty. Third, you must look at the weapon and not downrange at your potential danger area. Lastly, you must have plenty of light to see your gear. Thus, with a revolver, tactical reloads can be extremely difficult, especially in the dark and under stress. With that said, at least try tactical with your revolver. If you’re having great difficulty, you may choose to eject all of the rounds and just load with a fresh speed loader.
For the left-handed shooter, open the cylinder of the weapon and transfer the weapon to the support hand with the support side thumb protruding all the way through the frame. Trap the cylinder all the way open. Press the eject button rod about halfway up using your index finger of your support hand. Let the ejector rod go. Using your firing hand, pluck out the empties and replace with live rounds. Once the weapon is loaded, close the cylinder, transfer the weapon back to your firing hand, and you’re ready to go. If you don’t have the proper dummy rounds, simply go through the motions with a completely empty gun.
- Tactical reload — Dry practice (1:21:59)
- Pause the video at this point and dry practice the 3 Secrets on your own.
Let’s talk about the stoppages that can occur with your weapons. There are two kinds of stoppages, jams and malfunctions.
A jam is essentially a broken weapon. A jam may take a gunsmith, some tools, and certainly some time to fix.
Malfunctions on the other hand are temporary stoppages of your weapon. A malfunction can be fixed reflexively in the middle of a gunfight. Malfunctions are divided into three different types. We very cleverly call these Types 1, 2, and 3. Before we get into the malfunctions, it’s important for you to understand that clearing a malfunction is a reflexive response, while shooting requires a conscious decision. Why do we make that distinction? A lot of police departments, military … and other firearms schools have taught malfunction clearances, such as
tap, rack, bang. You may have heard that in the past. The problem with
tap, rack, bang is that you are ingraining the act of shooting as a reflexive response, and that’s not a good thing. The situation may have changed while you were clearing the malfunction, and you may not need to shoot again. However, if you have ingrained
bang through hundreds or even thousands of repetitions, the
bang is going to be included automatically. In fact, that very thing happened to an unfortunate Southern California police officer. He followed a suspect into a hallway where a gunfight ensued. He ended up with a Type 1 malfunction. To clear that malfunction, he had been taught
Tap, Rack, Bang. So that’s what he did. He tapped, he racked, and he began to press off another shot. During the clearance process, an innocent bystander stepped out into the hallway from his apartment to see what all the commotion was. The officer recognized the problem, and in his mind was screaming,
Stop! Don’t shoot! Don’t shoot! But pressing the trigger had been so deeply ingrained that he was unable to stop himself. Bang! He fired the shot and killed the innocent bystander. We are not going to allow that to happen to you.
Here at Front Sight, we separate the reflexive act of clearing a malfunction from the conscious decision of shooting. On the street, in all likelihood, you will have to fire after a malfunction clearance. With that in mind, we want you to be prepared to shoot. So you will finish your malfunction clearances with the weapon pointed in and your finger on the trigger, taking the next step — that is, actually firing the shot — is a conscious decision that only you can make. At Front Sight, we address all malfunctions on a symptom solution basis. If you don’t pay attention to the symptom before you try to clear the malfunction, you will waste an extraordinary amount of time. If you have the proper dummy training rounds, now is the time to use them. If not, go through the motions with an empty weapon.
- Type 1 malfunction (1:25:24)
- With all that said, let’s talk about Type 1 malfunctions. A Type 1 is a failure to fire. What that means is you’ve pressed the trigger and the weapon went click instead of bang. This has been referred to as the loudest sound you will ever hear in the middle of a gunfight. The cause of a Type 1 malfunction may be a dead round in the chamber, empty brass in the chamber, or nothing at all in the chamber. An empty chamber is usually caused by a failure to fully seat the magazine. To set up a Type 1, you’ll simply unload the weapon and then insert a loaded magazine. Now you’ve got an empty chamber and a loaded magazine in the magazine well. Perform one last chamber check to verify that you have an empty chamber. We will then have you point in and press the trigger, you will get a click. That click is your symptom. To clear a Type 1, keep the weapon high. Remember on the street you will likely have to shoot after clearing the malfunction. Keeping the weapon high minimizes the time to get back on target. Your trigger finger goes straight, tap, the magazine with the heel of your support hand. This ensures that the magazine is fully seated. With your support hand, get a hold of the grasping grooves at the back of the slide. Use the heel of the hand and your fingertips. Do not slingshot. Briskly rack the slide while simultaneously flipping the weight. 90 degrees to the right. This puts the ejection port down and lets gravity help clear the chamber. Re-establish your firing grip, point in, and your finger will be on the trigger. However, you will not shoot. Come down to the ready and complete the after-action drills. Let me set that up one more time. Unload and insert a full magazine. One last chamber check to verify that the chamber is in fact empty. We will now have you point in and on the go command you will press. You’ll get a click which is your symptom. Trigger finger goes straight, tap, rack flip, point it back at your target, finger on the trigger without shooting. Come down to the ready.
- Type 1 malfunction — Dry practice (1:28:06)
- Pause the video at this point and dry practice type 1 malfunction clearances on your own.
- Type 2 malfunction (1:28:16)
- Let’s talk about our next malfunction, and that’s the Type 2. This is defined as a failure to eject. You fired the shot, but the weapon has failed to eject the fired piece of brass and has trapped it in the ejection port. You end up with brass high in the ejection port. To set up a Type 2 malfunction, unload your weapon and lock the slide to the rear. This is done by running the slide to the rear while simultaneously pushing up on the slide stop lever. For left-handers, you reach over the top of the slide, pull the slide to the rear, and push up on the slide stop lever with your support side thumb. Then, insert a dummy round into the ejection port. Just lay it up against the side and ease the slide closed. Then, insert a loaded magazine. FMK and Glock shooters, you will then trip your trigger as part of the process. What we mean by tripping your trigger … is simply press the trigger after you’ve completely set up the malfunction. The trigger will be to the rear when you have a type 2 malfunction for real and we want to duplicate that on the range. Don’t worry your weapon will not fire when you trip the trigger after you completely set up for the malfunction. This is what a type 2 malfunction looks like. Notice brass high in the ejection port. This is sometimes called a stovepipe malfunction for obvious reasons. To practice fixing this, we will have you point in, hard focus on the front sight, and press the trigger. Unlike the Type 1 malfunction where you got a click, like a normal trigger press, here you will get nothing. The trigger just does not work. This is not enough information for you to make a diagnosis. So the trigger finger goes straight and you must look to see what the problem is. Keeping the weapon high, point the muzzle up and look. As you are looking, move. On you’ll simply take a small step to the side. This simulates getting off of the line of attack, possibly moving to immediate cover or concealment. You will see brass high in the ejection port, so you will know that it’s a Type 2 malfunction. Keep the weapon high and look downrange at your adversary, and fix it the exact same way you did a Type 1. Tap, reach over the back, rack flip, point it back in at your adversary, finger on the trigger, but you are not going to shoot. Finger straight, come down to the ready. To set this up again, unload your weapon and lock the slide to the rear. Trap that live round in the ejection port and insert a loaded magazine. FMK Glock shooters, trip your triggers. At this time, we’ll have you point in, hard focus on the front sight, press. Nothing happens, not enough information to diagnose. Fingers straight, look, aim, move. You’ll see brass high in the ejection port. Type 2. Tap, wrap flip, back on target, finger on the trigger without shooting. I’m down to the ready.
- Type 2 malfunction — Dry practice (1:31:53)
- Pause the video at this point and dry practice type 2 malfunction clearances on your own.
- Type 3 malfunction
- The final malfunction we’re going to talk about is the Type 3 malfunction. It’s commonly referred to as a double feed or a feedway stoppage. The actual cause of this malfunction is generally a failure to extract. You fired a shot and the weapon was not fired, weapon has failed to extract the spent case, leaving it in the chamber. The slide has come all the way to the rear and then stripped a new round from the magazine on its way forward. However, that new round has nowhere to go, so you end up with a fired case in the chamber and a live round nosed up against it. The result is … will be a whole lot of brass low in the ejection port. It’s going to take some time and effort on your part to clear this malfunction. This would be a good time to deploy a backup weapon if you have one. It may be faster to do that than it is to clear this type 3 malfunction. But let’s assume you have only the one weapon, and it has now experienced a Type 3 malfunction. To set up a Type 3 malfunction, unload the weapon and lock the slide to the rear. Point the weapon down to the ground, but do not muzzle your toes. Drop a dummy round into the chamber and insert a full magazine into the magazine well. Ease the slide forward. It’s only going to go forward maybe an eighth of an inch or so. Now you have a round in the chamber and a second round pressed up against it. Glock and FMK shooters you will then trip your triggers as part of the setup. This is what it will look like. A whole bunch of brass low in the ejection port. We will have you point in at your target, focus on the front sight, and press the trigger. Nothing is going to happen. It’s going to feel just like a type 2. Trigger finger straight, look, and move. At this point you’ll see a whole lot of brass low in the ejection port. That’s a type 3. Physically check to make sure that you have a spare magazine on your pouch. Then lock the slide to the rear. Doing this will take the pressure off that top round in the magazine. Next, strip the magazine out of the weapon and let it go to the ground. Don’t baby it, get it out of your way. Now with your support hand, reach up and over the top of the slide, grasp the grasping grooves, and rack three times. Hold on to the slide the entire time. This is going to clear out whatever’s in the chamber. Now you have an unloaded weapon. Keeping the weapon high, index a fresh magazine off your belt, insert it into the magazine well and rack one more time. Now get back on target, finger on the trigger, slack out, but do not shoot. Then your finger goes straight, come down to the ready. So the steps to clear a Type 3 malfunction are look and move, check, Lock, Script, Rack, Rack, Rack, Insert, and Rack. Okay, I’ll set that up again. Bring your weapon out, chamber check, magazine check, unload the weapon, lock the slide to the rear, drop a round into the chamber, insert a loaded magazine, ease the slide forward, as appropriate for Glock and FMK, grip the trigger. Make certain you have a spare magazine on your belt. Point in, front sight, press, finger straight, look and move, support hand, verify you have a spare magazine, lock, strip, rack, rack, rack, insert. Rack, back on target, finger on the trigger without shooting. Come down to the ready. For left-handed shooters, the only thing that’s different is how you lock the slide to the rear. You’ll tip the weapon over 90 degrees to the right. Grasp the slide in the same way you did to take a round out of the chamber. Run the slide to the rear and pull up on the slide stop lever with your support side thumb. There is no equivalent to a Type 3 malfunction for revolvers. So again, revolver shooters, you can simply practice more Type 1s if you like. At this point you might be wondering what to do if you didn’t have another magazine to put in the weapon. In other words, you don’t have a spare magazine on your belt, and you’re down to your last magazine. Whatever the reason, the only magazine you have is the one in the weapon. If you strip that magazine out to the ground, now you have nothing. Let me show you what that would look like. So, again, we’re going to set it up, chamber check, magazine check, lock the slide to the rear, drop a dummy round into the chamber, Insert a full magazine, ease the slide forward, and trip the trigger as appropriate. Point in, front sight, press. Finger straight, look and move. Check. This time you do not have a magazine on your belt. So, lock, strip, but retain the magazine behind your little finger. Insert, rack, back on target, finger on trigger, finish it out. I know this is a lot to remember. However, just remember the steps. Look and move, check, lock, strip, rack, rack, rack. Insert, rack, and you’re going to do fine.
- Type 3 malfunction — Dry practice (1:38:05)
- Pause the video at this point and dry practice type 3 malfunction clearances on your own.
Emergency reloads (1:38:15)
Let’s talk about our next reloading procedure, the emergency reload. There are four methods of loading and this one is number three. The reason it’s called an emergency reload is that you have fired your weapon completely empty. The slide has locked back on an empty magazine. You’re in the middle of a gunfight and this is definitely an emergency. Some schools consider it a cardinal sin to run the weapon dry. Certainly firing until your weapon is empty isn’t desirable, but there is an occasion when it is a tactical necessity. For example, running your weapon dry would make sense if you still have a target. Should you stop and perform a tactical reload, or fire your last round? Absolutely, fire your last round. That may be the round that’s … stops the fight. It would make no sense to stop shooting to perform a tactical reload.
Here is how you set up for an emergency reload. First, unload your weapon and insert an empty magazine and then run the slide to the rear. The slide should lock back to the rear automatically. Make sure you have a loaded magazine on your belt and you’re ready to go. FMK and Glock shooters, you will trip your triggers as part of the setup. From this point we will have you point in, focus on the front sight and press. Nothing is going to happen and you cannot be sure why the weapon didn’t fire So trigger finger goes straight, tip the muzzle up to look, and move. There is no brass anywhere. Keep the weapon high and look downrange at your adversary. Next, with your support hand, index a full magazine on your belt. Now bring the magazine out of the magazine pouch and start it toward the weapon. Press the magazine release button with your firing side thumb. The two magazines, the one coming towards the weapon and the one falling out of the weapon, should pass in midair. Place the back of the full magazine against the back of the magazine well at a slight angle, rock it into place, and insert with one brisk motion. At this point you have three options to drop the slide. The fastest is to use your firing side thumb to depress the slide stop. If you cannot reach it with your firing side thumb, the second best option is using your support side thumb. As your support hand comes around to acquire a normal grip, simply stop with your support side thumb. If you are left-handed or you can’t get your support side thumb to drop the slide, your only remaining option is to reach up with your support hand and rack the slide. Don’t baby it forward, let it fly forward like the normal loading process, thus chambering the round. That method is the least preferable, in terms of speed. The key to performing an emergency reload quickly is economy of motion. Keep your weapon high, in line with your adversary. Your focus should be downrange, watching your adversary. I’ll demonstrate this again. To set up for an emergency reload, start by unloading your weapon. Once the weapon is unloaded, insert an empty magazine and rack the slide to the rear. FMK and Glock shooters, you need to trip the triggers. You also need to make certain that you have a loaded magazine on your belt pouch. We’ll have you point in, focus on the front sight, gently press the trigger. The weapon does not function. Finger straight, look, and move. Identify the problem as an emergency reload. Keep the weapon high and in line with your adversary. Secure a fresh magazine off your belt, and the magazines pass in midair. Insert that magazine flat to flat, insert with one brisk motion, and send the slide forward, chambering the round. Finish by pointing in at your adversary, but you will not shoot. Remember, an emergency reload is a reflexive action, but shooting is a conscious decision. About the only thing that can go wrong in this process is the magazine does not fall free from the weapon when you press the magazine release button. This is common with the first-generation Glock magazines. The solution is simple. Your support hand is already coming towards the gun with a fresh magazine. With your support side little finger, simply hook the front edge of the magazine in the magazine well, strip it out, let it fall to the ground. Insert that fresh magazine and then send the slide forward. It’s important that you do not drop the depleted magazine until you are certain that you have a spare one on your belt to replace it. If you drop the empty magazine on the ground first, what did you just tell the bad guy? Yeah, that you’re out of ammo. So reach back and ensure that you have a full magazine.
The emergency reload technique for revolvers is as follows. To set up, make certain that the weapon is unloaded or full of the inert training rounds. Point in at the target, press the trigger, you will get a click. Simply press the trigger again. If you get another click, the weapon is probably empty and now it’s time for an emergency reload. As you step, bring the weapon in close and open the cylinder. Wrap the cylinder and then point the muzzle straight to the sky. Strike the ejector rod with the palm of your firing hand. Now, point the muzzle straight back down to the ground your speed loader. Make sure that you have a proper index. Insert the rounds, rotate the knob, let the speed loader fall to the ground, and then close the cylinder. At this point, point it at the target, finger on the trigger, but you will not press. That’s the emergency. Emergency Reload Technique for the revolver. How do you prevent emergency reloads? By performing tactical reloads whenever you can. Remember, reload when you want to, not when you have to.
- Emergency reload — Dry practice
- Pause the video at this point and dry practice emergency reloads on your own.
All right, that concludes your Front Sight One Day Introductory Handgun Course. This is just the beginning of your journey to gain skill at arms. We keep telling you that this is a wonderful facility with great staff and with students from all walks of life. But don’t take my word for it, just listen to some of the comments made by our students about how much they learned and how much fun they had.
When I left, I felt confident. I felt more relaxed in any environment. Walking into a grocery store, getting in and out of my car, no matter the time of day. It makes you feel just not vulnerable anymore. Dr. Piazza, what I’d like to say is when I first came ten years ago, I was thoroughly impressed with the quality of training and the professionalism. What I’m most impressed with coming back ten years later is that the integrity of the training is still the same. The instructors are still just as professional, just as kind. Nobody’s condescending, patronizing, and it’s just a level of training that I don’t think exists anywhere else.
My experiences here at Front Sight have been great. I came in a little bit nervous the first day, never actually having any specific training. Our staff instructors have been awesome. They have really been able to help me understand how best to use my handgun.
Yeah, my name is Keith Brown and I’m a full-time minister. I came down. I’m just amazed at the professionalism. It’s a lot of fun but you learn so much and it’s so professional it’s a great great way to learn how to handle a weapon.
Hi my name is Talena Lorren. I’m from Dallas, Texas, and I’m a student. We used to do a lot of shooting when I was younger, but I never really felt comfortable shooting a gun until I got to Front Sight, and now I couldn’t feel more comfortable handling a gun and shooting it. Dr. Piazza, thank you for opening a place so that people can learn how to properly handle their guns so they’re comfortable with it. Owning a gun and being able to protect yourself is a right that we all deserve to have. If we don’t get to have that, then we’re kind of lost on the ability to fight and protect what’s ours.
Since coming out to Front Sight for the first time, I became a Diamond member. Brought along a number of my cousins and family and friends. We probably have a half a dozen people who come out here regularly and there will be more coming.
I feel like I’ve been way more informed. I’ve had a wonderful experience here at Front Sight in being able to develop my skills in weapon use.
My name is Jessica. I’m a bookkeeper from Chattanooga, Tennessee. I first sought training at Front Sight as a direct result of my husband seeing Front Sight in a firearms magazine and suggesting we use that as our vacation that year to come out here and get some training. My experience at Front Sight thus far has been profound. My first class was a complete life changer for me. By the end of the fourth day, I was sorry that that was the fourth day. I was ready to just stay and stay and stay and do more and more. But I left that four-day class knowing that I could learn, knowing that I could do it if I had to. If I bumped into Dr. Piazza on the street, I would shake his hand and say thank you. Thank you for this idea. Thank you for this place where we could come and be safely trained, incredibly safely trained, with staff that know what they’re doing.
Coming to Front Sight twelve years ago really saved my life, saved my peace, allowed me to be the mother that I was. So to be a responsible gun owner, by coming here for a four day class one month ago, I felt so confident because I can come to a Front Sight, it’s encouraging, it is comforting, and you feel so responsible when you leave.
Four days. So we came out here, we looked around, a level of professionalism with the staff. The facility, I just couldn’t understand how they can afford to do this at this discounted rate. We did have fun, and it’s just been about half a day. It’s been fantastic. Our experiences out here have been absolutely phenomenal due to the fact, again, the level of professionalism, the training. All the instructors out here are overachievers. When you hear their stories and where they came from and how they teach their students the Front Sight way is unbelievable. We cannot say enough about the level of instruction from the first time not firing a gun coming out here for my wife for instance. She feels so comfortable after four days. Dr. Piazza I’d like to thank you very very much. You have given us an opportunity of instruction that is such a high level that my wife and I cannot thank you enough.
I wanted to come to Front Sight after I’d heard a lot of great things about it and our first time here was just so exciting. My experience here at Front Sight has been nothing but positive. The staff is so nice. You feel like a family. Dr. Piazza, I would like to tell you this is a fabulous place. Women are comfortable here. It’s very nice. The facilities are wonderful. You treat us wonderful. You treat us with like intelligent people and there is absolutely no separation from the treatment of men and women here. It’s a wonderful, warm place to be.
As you saw, our students come from all sorts of backgrounds and all skill levels. Each and every one of them has a great time here as they improve their skills.
Now let me introduce you to Dr. Ignatius Piazza, the founder and director of Front Sight. He will explain why you need to take the next step and come to Front Sight.
Dr. Ignatius Piazza (1:51:05)
If we don’t make a strategic and tactical change in the battle to save our gun rights, we too will lose the greatest freedom a man can possess, a gun in his own trained hands. Something can be done to ensure that all Americans will forever retain the right to bear arms, as guaranteed by the Second Amendment, and something is being done, right now, at Front Sight’s 550-acre resort near Las Vegas, Nevada.
Here at Front Sight, we’ve created the opportunity for people to taste the freedom that Second Amendment guarantees, and they love it!
WHAT THE FOUNDING FATHERS HAD IN MIND:
LET EVERY MAN BE ARMED
Front Sight is the realization of what the Founding Fathers defined in the Second Amendment. Front Sight is a safe and responsible place where all law-abiding American citizens are free to own, carry, and train with weapons to levels that far exceed those found within the military and law enforcement community, but without any boot camp mentalities or drill instructor attitudes, our world-class instructional staff provides you with all the personal attention you need to reach a level of expertise that surpasses 99% of those people who carry a gun for a living. This is no exaggeration.
I’m a police officer in New York, Long Island and I’ve been a cop for 26 years. Although I’ve had training and through other private schools, I’ve been coming to Front Sight, Nevada for the last four years because after my first trip, the level of training, the facilities, and particularly the quality of instruction just blows me away. It has been training above and beyond what I’ve had anywhere else, and I’ve talked to other police officers, I’ve talked to military people, and those who have been out here and have been to other schools have all said the same thing. If you want the best training, this is the place to come.
I spent 20 years in the Marine Corps, and I was a primary marksmanship instructor and I was a small arms weapons instructor. The training was that amazing, especially when it relates to the handgun. They never taught us to present from the holster in the Marine Corps. Not only was after four days was I able to present from the holster quickly and efficiently, I was able to get my shots on the target where I wanted them to go. The instructors are patient, the blocks of instruction are easy to assimilate. You’ll be performing all the techniques correctly and efficiently at the end of two to four days. The training is that good.
Lt. Bob Redmond
I’m a lieutenant with the 9th County Sheriff’s Office commander for six years. Also, I was a sniper in the Marine Corps. The training that I’ve seen at Front Sight far exceeds anything that I saw in the military or law enforcement. That’s the reason that I make sure that all of my SWAT members train here at Front Sight.
Dr. Ignatius Piazza (1:55:11)
Whether you are the provider and protector in your family and want to have the highest level of training available in the world today, or you want your spouse and children to know how to defend themselves against a violent attacker, or you are a young man or woman going to war and want to expertly defend your fellow soldiers and return home alive and well, Front Sight is the answer you are looking for.